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I know I did!!! 😂 Tough being in the video and taking the video.

Hello and thanks for the question. They cut probably be cut back hard anytime during active growth as they are generally so strong and will easily bud back. Digging out would be same time as you would repot, at bud break. I would cut back hard to roughly where you think the chop should be (depends on the design you have in mind). Then allow it to bud and select a single strong shoot to develop as the new trunk line. Once this is broom handle thickness or so then shape that original trunk chop to a nice angle tapering into the new trunk line. They do heal large scars but the larger the scar the longer it will take of course. You may end up having to fill the cavity which forms with cement in order to give it a good base for callous formation. I don’t want to refer to a date as your climate and seasons are different to mine.

Not a dumb question at all. Yes it can, assuming your wire crosses over a root and you leave the wire on for a long time. There are various methods for using wire to secure trees. One includes hammering sticks into the root ball from the sides and then securing the wire over that. If you don’t have a developed root ball then that’s not an option. Then securing wire over deeper roots is another solution.

Yes. Read this: www.bonsaitree.co.za/blogs/tree-talk/japanese-black-pine-from-seed-year-1

Thanks so much. Much appreciated!

Interesting

The workload pressure is intense. I have to 😉😂

Great! Best time for this is spring of course. Also, try to use species which will manage in the kind of light you will grow the planting in. For me to keep moss alive in Summer and provide sufficient sun for a pine is not possible. I would change that.

Thanks so much! Yes, the client is very happy and I think with time it will only get better,

Should work for any pine where a thick trunk is desirable.

Nope. Just like me, my trees don’t drink. 😊

Cool, thanks!

You need to keep the strong. Or you could wire and twist the growth to lay the branches flattish, so the strong no longer shades the weak.

... And of course by using the tanuki approach one can create something really special in our country with what is available.

I would appreciate your advice on digging out an "urban yamadori" ,ie garden planted Juniper... When would you suggest is the best time to dig out a "rather old", say 30 years, junipers from the garden?

And any other after care. Thank you Terry

Yes. This is what I hope to convey through the video. Thanks.

Ok. I will comment on that in your next comment

Thanks so much! Very generous of you. There are over 200 videos on my channel and if I dare say so myself, this one was not one of the best but I am sincerely glad you enjoyed it.

That’s interesting, not sure why anyone would call him a fool for using the technique. It’s been employed in Takamatsu (growing center for pines in Japan) for a very long time, this is where I learn about it. Translated it means “cage wiring”. Works brilliantly.

That’s awesome! Wow, what a compliment. Thank you. Yes, the short links to the full length video. Did it a while ago so quality of the camera work leaves much to be desired but I’m sure it will be helpful to you. Here’s the link just in case: How to thicken pines for shohin ruclips.net/video/L3AN0L83JtQ/видео.html

それは私が地面で切断して育つ多くのAcer buergerianumの1つです。見てくれてありがとう。

That’s not something I can assist you with as I’ve never done it myself. Both approaches could work but I think approach graft in such a situation is more likely to succeed. Grafting onto an old and barked trunk is not easy.

Thank you kindly! 🙏🏻

It certainly does, that’s an important point which you made. I’ve always used a tile and always from cuttings and always preparing the young tree before sticking it into the ground. Growing from cuttings is also much better than from seed.

Thanks so much! 🙇🏼‍♂️

Thank you kindly Herman! Appreciate it.

Thank you so much, I am glad you have learnt something from some of my content. Field growing is truly awesome, well done. Actually it depends. If you want back budding then better to cut the sacrifice in late spring. If you don't need back budding then yes you can cut any time now till mid or late winter probably. Just bear in mind that if you do root work that the tree will take roughly 2 years to get back to the current energy level.

Thank you Sue. Yes, I am so happy with the progress myself, it has after all only been 3 years since I combined the elements. I’m not actually sure where the term Phoenix graft comes from but I agree it is very apt. Good luck with the wiring when you get there. Becoming adept with wiring opens up many creative opportunities with your trees.

Thanks so much! I appreciate the compliment

Thanks Valerie. When I studied in Japan this is the exact method we used. However, I intend doing a follow up shortly. Needed to wait for it to drop its leaves, but until then I can reassure you that the tree is growing very well.

Thank you I will go ahead and try it, but I don't want to lose my tree 👍

@ValerieNew-v5c you won’t, at least not due to using cement anyways.

Awesome! I am so glad. Will keep uploading as long as I can and as long as people view the content. 😊

Thanks so much Brian! Very kind of you. 🙇🏼‍♂️

Thanks so much! Appreciate it. 🙏🏻